Joe
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WebDM drew that in there as lines. He made a blank map and drew that in one time, then saved that blank map as sort of a template, so he could always start fresh. He says he’ll post it, but I don’t think he ever got around to it.
Catching up on old messages, but I think I replied to you elsewhere. But for anyone else, section 7 of our license (in the Help menu of Worldographer) goes over this. In short, you can have a license on up 2 3 machines at a time. Yes, you can publish the maps made with the tool, just give credit, but if you make a map of some copyrighted place (Middle Earth for example) or use icons that someone else has a copyright on, then they might have an issue with it. I am not a lawyer and this isn’t legal advice–again read our license.
We sorted this out by email… but for other’s benefit: Once you have a battlemat/battlemap map open, go to the Tools menu and look for “switch icons to simple style”. The icons in the features drawer won’t change, but any on the map and any you add to the map which have a simple version (all the basic built in icons like doors, stairs, fireplace, etc.) will switch.
I think we got this sorted out shortly after you posted. Just posting here for everyone’s benefit that yes support@inkwellideas.com is the best way to get your codes.
Things that you want to autoload should go in directly in that configured Worldographer folder in features/ terrain/ or textures/. This that you want to choose to quickly add via “add configuration subfolders” should be set up as you described.
If I made all of it autoload, I’m worried we’d blow up some folks memory constraints.
The grid numbers aren’t supposed to be shown until you check the “#’s” checkbox on the bottom, which I think is what is happening.
To change a map from Kingdom to World, you’d first have to go to Continent. You do this either by the view level drop-down under the mini-map or the Generate menu’s “Re-generate map level” (both go to the same code). That lets you make a map that is 5:1 (for example) hexes in the old map to the new map. So your kingdom map would need to be 500 hexes across to get a 100 hex across (roughly) continent map. Then if you did 5:1 again you’d end up with roughly a 20 hex across map.
Other wise, I’d point you to our tutorial videos (there is a Worldogrpaher 101 video for example) here: https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCORQgCvPuOnaDaMSJnUrXfQ
Or our user manual which goes over all the features of the program: https://worldographer.com/manual/
And config dialog specifically are in the Advanced Instructions: https://worldographer.com/instructions/08-configuration-windows/Sorry, catching up on messages post-vacation.
Yes, on the Generate Menu is a “(Re)Generate Map Level” option that does let you recreate an already created map level.
Here’s the meso american set we made last year:
Are you just asking if the raw images Worldographer uses also sized to support 300 pixels hexes? Yes.
Or are you asking how to big to make hexes so the art looks good when printed? If so… well, the PDF export (on the File menu) in Worldographer works similarly where it asks you what size hexes you want when printed and then makes that into a PDF. But the image export to a PNG doesn’t… my thinking is that because the image is just pixels*, you can just stick enough pixels in the image so it won’t look blocky/pixellated when printed. What’s enough pixels? Well if you’re going to print them at about 1″/hex, you’re want at least 150 pixels per hex. Industry standard is 300/inch so 1″ hexes might make you think you need 300 pixels/inch, but industry standard is actually double what the human eye can detect. If you want 1/4″ hexes, then you’ll want 40-ish pixel hexes. If you want to err on the high side of both those numbers that’s fine. Because the software you use to actually print the map will let you pick margins and so on… plus the staggered nature of the hexes also impacts all of this.
*Technically, we can set the DPI of the image, but this attribute is ignored by most image editors, particularly when printing.
Probably best to send the file to support at inkwellideas dot com and let me know which label(s) is/are can’t be deleted. Just to be sure: have you tried both the “delete” button on the labels drawer and pressing the delete key? Both should work, but maybe there is a weird situation preventing one and not the other. In any case it would be nice to see the file so I can figure out if/where is the bug.
